Today — technology and ethics

Modern perfumery: between technology and ethics

The 21st century is marked by a double tension in world perfumery: on one side, technological progress (biotechnology, artificial intelligence, olfactory sensors) opens up unprecedented possibilities. On the other, fundamental ethical questions (environment, sustainability, animal welfare) challenge age-old practices.

Biotechnology at the service of perfume

Biotechnology is among the most important developments in perfumery since the chemical synthesis of the 19th century. Companies such as Givaudan, Firmenich (now dsm-firmenich) and IFF (International Flavors & Fragrances) are investing heavily in fermentation and biocatalysis to produce aromatic molecules.

The principle is that of biotransformation: micro-organisms (yeasts, bacteria) are genetically programmed to produce specific aromatic molecules from renewable raw materials (sugar, starch, vegetable oils). The result is a molecule identical to the natural one, produced in a more controlled way and, depending on the case, more economical and more sustainable.

Artificial intelligence and perfume creation

Since 2019, the use of artificial intelligence in perfume creation has become an industrial reality. AI systems developed by Givaudan (Carto) and IBM (Philyra) are able to analyse millions of existing formulas, to predict harmonious molecular combinations and to propose new compositions.

In June 2019, the Brazilian group O Boticário launched Egeo On Me and Egeo On You, presented as the first perfumes designed with the Philyra AI (IBM Research and Symrise), trained on some 1.7 million formulas.

However, many perfumers (the “noses”) remain cautious about AI as a primary creative tool. They see it as a tool for research and optimisation, but insist that the emotional and cultural dimension of perfume creation remains hard to entrust to algorithms.

The ecological stakes of perfumery

Modern perfumery faces considerable environmental challenges. Some traditional raw materials are today threatened or under pressure:

Mysore sandalwood (Santalum album), considered the noblest of sandalwoods, has been overexploited for decades in India. Its production is now strictly regulated and its price has reached heights: several thousand euros per kilogram of essential oil.

Natural oud (agarwood) from the Aquilaria tree is classed as a threatened species. The growing demand from Middle Eastern and Asian markets puts unsustainable pressure on natural forests. Sustainable cultivation projects (agarwood farming) are developing in South-East Asia.

Civet, ambergris (sperm whale secretions) and deer musk are traditional animal materials that have been abandoned or very heavily restricted in modern perfumery, replaced by synthetic equivalents. This transition is both ethical and economic: synthetic alternatives are cheaper and available in unlimited quantity.

The future of perfumery

Several trends outline the future of world perfumery:

Personalisation is at the heart of innovation projects. Start-ups are developing technologies that make it possible to create a made-to-measure perfume according to each individual's genetic profile or microbiome. Some platforms already allow you to design your perfume online by answering questions about your tastes, your personality and your emotions.

Formula transparency is a growing demand from consumers. Faced with scandals linked to endocrine disruptors and allergens, brands are pushed to reveal more of their compositions. The European Union has considerably tightened the regulation of raw materials in perfumery over the past decade.

The connected perfume is a path explored by start-ups: connected diffusers that change the olfactive atmosphere of a space in real time according to external data (weather, time, emotional state measured by sensors). Experiential perfumery — the kind that creates emotions, memories, journeys — is one of the most promising paths for the future.