How is a perfume made today?

Creating a contemporary perfume is a long and complex process, combining ancestral craft, fine chemistry, aesthetics and marketing. Here are the main stages of this journey, from plant to bottle.

Step 1 — Extracting the raw materials

Natural raw materials are extracted by different methods depending on their nature:

Steam distillation is the most widespread technique for aromatic plants (lavender, rose, rosemary, mint). Steam passes through the plant, carries off the aromatic molecules, and condensation produces a water-oil mixture from which the essential oil is separated.

Cold expression (or pressing) is used for citrus (bergamot, lemon, orange, grapefruit). The peels are mechanically pressed to release the essential oil held in the cells. This technique preserves the freshness and liveliness of citrus.

Solvent extraction (hexane, supercritical CO₂) yields absolutes and resinoids. The solvent dissolves the aromatic molecules, then is evaporated, leaving a waxy concrete that is washed with alcohol to obtain the absolute. This method is used for fragile materials (jasmine, tuberose, some roses).

Step 2 — Formulation by the nose

The perfumer — the “nose” — works from a palette of several hundred to over a thousand raw materials. Their main tool is their olfactory library, embodied by the perfumer's organ: a carefully ordered collection of raw materials classified by scent family.

They work from a creative brief provided by the client (perfume house, brand). This brief describes an emotion, a story, a visual universe, a marketing target and technical constraints (materials budget, regulated allergens, stability, etc.).

The composition is first built on the classic scent pyramid structure:

Top notes are those perceived first (from about 5 to 30 minutes). They are volatile and give the first impression: citrus, fresh herbs, aquatic notes. Heart notes make up the central character of the perfume, perceived after the top notes (from about 2 to 6 hours). They are often florals, spices, fruity notes. Base notes are the lasting foundation of the perfume, perceptible for six hours and more. These durations are orders of magnitude, not a standard. They give depth and longevity: woods, musk, resins, vanilla, amber.

Step 3 — The liquid and the concentration

The juice is the final solution obtained by dissolving the aromatic concentrate in ethyl alcohol (of the order of 90 to 96%) and possibly a small amount of water. The concentration of the concentrate relative to the total volume defines the product category:

Parfum (or extrait) contains 20 to 40% aromatic concentrate. It is the most concentrated, most persistent and most expensive form. Eau de Parfum (EdP) contains 15 to 20% concentrate. The most popular form in luxury perfumery. Eau de Toilette (EdT) contains 5 to 15% concentrate. Lighter, fresher, ideal for everyday use. Eau de Cologne contains 2 to 5% concentrate. Very light, ideal for citrus and fresh notes.

Step 4 — Stabilisation and testing

Before going on sale, the perfume undergoes a series of physico-chemical and dermatological tests. Its stability is tested at different temperatures and light exposures. Its molecules are analysed to detect the presence of allergens to be labelled under the European cosmetics regulation (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, whose list was greatly extended in 2023).

Consumer panels then evaluate the perfume: appeal, evocation, fit with the brand's identity. It is not unusual for a composition to go through 50 to 100 revisions before being approved.